Recreational Vans
A rivnut kit for field repairs is a compact answer to a big problem. When a fastener tears out of thin sheet metal or composite, you often cannot reach the back side to add a nut. A rivnut, also called a rivet nut or nutsert, collapses behind the panel to create a new threaded anchor from the front side only. No welding, no interior tear down, and minimal downtime.
A solid kit covers the essentials. Stock common thread sizes like M6, M8, 1/4 20, and 5/16 18. Pack inserts in multiple materials and grip ranges so you can match panel thickness and environment. Include a setting tool, step bits for clean hole sizing, a deburring tool, thread locker for bolts, and anti seize for stainless on stainless. Round it out with a small torque wrench if weight allows, plus painter’s tape to mark drill depth and protect paint.
Grip range is the hidden variable that decides success. Too short and the knurl cannot bite into the panel. Too long and the body may collapse poorly or spin. Check the panel thickness, then select an insert whose spec lists a matching range. If you are unsure, choose an insert with a wider collapse profile like a plusnut for ultra thin single wall panels.
Material choice matters. Zinc plated steel inserts are strong and easy to set. Aluminum inserts resist corrosion in many climates and are kinder to thin aluminum skins. Stainless inserts fight rust but require more force to seat and can gall with stainless bolts. Plan for galvanic considerations. On an aluminum body panel, pair aluminum inserts with coated hardware or use barrier paste under the flange.
You do not need a full bench tool to do quality field work. Compact lever style rivnut setters generate solid pull force with two hands and store well in a drawer. Ratcheting kits are slower but precise. A basic field workaround uses a quality bolt, a nut as a spacer, a stack of hardened washers, and a wrench to pull the insert. It demands care, but it will get you home.
Drill prep is half the job. Use a step bit to dial in a round, burr free hole at the exact diameter listed by the insert manufacturer. Tape the work area to protect paint and catch chips. After drilling, deburr both sides and vacuum the swarf. A clean hole lets the knurls bite and reduces spin risk.
Set with control. Thread the insert fully onto the mandrel or field bolt. Keep the tool square to the panel and pull in stages, checking that the flange seats cleanly. Do not over pull. Over collapsing thins the wall and weakens threads. Once seated, back the tool out gently. If resistance is high, thread the tool forward a quarter turn to relieve pressure before reversing.
Carry a mix of M6 and M8 for euro vans and metric accessories, plus 1/4 20 and 5/16 18 for legacy gear. For panels under one millimeter, consider plusnuts that blossom behind the wall for more surface area. For thicker frames, a standard rivnut with a serrated body is efficient and strong.
A compact lever setter is the sweet spot for field kits. If space is tight, the bolt and washer method works with patience. Practice at home on scrap panels so the motions feel automatic when you are roadside with wind and dust.
Use medium strength thread locker on bolts that see vibration. Use anti seize on stainless hardware to prevent galling. Add a sealant under the flange in wet climates to keep water out of the panel. When mixing metals, apply dielectric or barrier paste to reduce galvanic reaction.
Spin out is the field tech’s nemesis. It happens when the insert rotates with the bolt. Prevent it by sizing the hole correctly, using inserts with knurls or hex bodies in compatible panels, and keeping firm pressure on the flange while starting the bolt. If an insert spins, you can sometimes seat it tighter by re pulling with the setter. If that fails, drill just the flange, collapse the body, push it through, and start fresh one size up.
Load direction matters. Rivnuts hold best in shear, where the force tries to slide the fastener sideways. They are weaker in pullout. Mount heavy items so forces run across the panel, not away from it. Use more fasteners to distribute loads, and do not rely on a single insert for dynamic gear.
Torque with intention. Threads in thin wall inserts can strip if you exceed spec. Since tools vary and conditions change, use a small beam wrench when possible. If you must go by feel, snug to firm and stop. Re check after the first drive.
Organize inserts by size and grip range in labeled boxes. Add a compact step bit, deburring tool, blue tape, a small file, and a magnet. Include bolts in matching sizes with washers and nyloc backups for non insert repairs.
Mark, drill, deburr, seat, and test fit. Keep hardware for the mounted accessory at hand so you can verify alignment while the tool is still out. Wipe the area clean and apply rust inhibitor on bare steel before final assembly.
Wear eye protection, control the drill, and stabilize panels with the body or a helper. Protect paint with tape and a fender cover. After repairs, rinse dust away so abrasive grit does not scratch the finish.
The best field repair is the one you rarely need. Our custom vans are engineered so common service points are accessible, mounting locations are reinforced, and threaded inserts are placed where they make sense. Thoughtful layouts reduce stress on thin panels, and accessory loads are spread across multiple anchors to handle washboard miles.
If your goal is a ready to roam adventure van that can be maintained on the road, our team in Fayetteville Arkansas builds with serviceability in mind. We use quality inserts, proper grip ranges, and corrosion smart hardware across interior and exterior attachments. During handoff at our lounge, we walk owners through the hardware map of their new rig so roadside fixes feel familiar.
Explore how we craft purpose built rigs on our recreational vans page. Planning a from scratch interior and systems package built around your travel style See custom van builds. Looking for a platform that keeps financing simple Review our mainstream vans options.
We do not rent or sell RVs, and we do not assist with DIY builds. We design and build complete adventure vans or targeted upfits that are quiet, durable, and easy to live with. That includes smart fasteners, clean wiring paths, and service minded access so your travel days focus on the view, not the toolbox.
Tell us about your routes and the gear you bring. We will spec a build that is strong where it counts and simple to service when nature or mileage throws surprises. Our Fayetteville Arkansas team is ready to design a rig that fits your life and keeps you moving.
What we build
Complete custom adventure vans tailored to how you travel
Partial upfits like racks, suspension, lighting, and interiors
Commercial and municipal vans for mission specific work
Learn more about our recreational vans
Explore our custom van builds
Compare mainstream vans for financing
Ready to build a rig that is easy to service and hard to break? Tell us how you travel. Our Fayetteville shop designs custom vans with smart mounting points, quality inserts, and field service readiness built in. Submit the form and our team will map a purpose built plan for your adventures.
ADDRESS:
6159 E Huntsville Rd, Fayetteville, AR 72701
PHONE:
(479) 326-9200
EMAIL:
info@ozkvans.com