Overland Shower Plumbing

Map The Water Story

A dependable overland shower starts with a simple flow map. Water moves from tank to pump to heater to mixer to shower head, then down the drain to a sealed grey tank. Keep that sequence clear and you can size components, route lines, and choose fittings with confidence.

Begin at the source. Fresh tanks live low and close to the axle for weight balance. Standard sizes range from 20 to 40 gallons in vans, more in long wheelbase rigs. Use NSF 61 rated tanks and fittings, and add a dedicated fill with a locking cap to keep your water clean.

Pressure comes from a 12 volt diaphragm pump. Common ratings are about 3 gallons per minute at roughly 45 psi. Add an accumulator to reduce pump cycling and noise while stabilizing pressure for a smooth shower. A pre pump sediment filter keeps grit out of valves and the heater.

Temperature control is the next pillar. On demand propane heaters provide steady hot water if you manage combustion air and exhaust correctly. Electric heaters are viable with high capacity battery systems but draw significant power; preheat while driving or on shore power to conserve battery. A thermostatic mixing valve limits scald risk and holds a consistent outlet temperature even when flow changes.

Drainage needs the same care as supply. Slope the shower pan at about two percent toward a center or linear drain. Use a trap to block odors and vent the grey tank so flow does not glug. Secure the tank, add a serviceable vent filter, and include an easy to reach dump valve.

Define Your Use Profile

List how many showers per day, average minutes per shower, desired temperature, and whether you wash gear or pets. That math drives tank size, heater capacity, and battery planning.

Water Source And Filtration

Use a two stage approach. A coarse inlet screen at the tank fill stops debris, and a carbon block filter at the tap improves taste. For remote filling, carry a drop in pre filter sock for rivers or rustic spigots.

Build The Wet Side Right

PEX is the workhorse for mobile plumbing. It tolerates vibration, resists scale, and handles typical pump pressures easily when crimped or expanded correctly. Keep hot and cold runs short, insulated, and protected from abrasion with grommets where lines pass through panels.

Mount the pump on rubber isolators near the tank with a straight shot to the inlet. Include a service loop and shutoff valves on both sides of the pump and heater. Quick drains at the lowest points simplify winterization. Color code lines for clarity and label every valve so anyone can service the system.

Combustion safety is non negotiable with propane water heaters. Provide proper ventilation and route exhaust outside. Install a carbon monoxide detector and test it monthly. Keep all electrical near the shower on GFCI protected circuits. For electric heaters, size wiring to minimize voltage drop and use fusing per the manufacturer’s amp rating.

The shower enclosure should be waterproof from floor to ceiling. Use a pan with a proper lip and a continuous membrane behind wall panels. Seal penetrations at the mixer and shower arm. Choose a shower head with a pause feature to stretch tank capacity without losing temperature set point.

Pump, Lines, And Valves

Target 45 to 55 psi at the mixer. Use half inch PEX for main runs, three eighths at fixtures to keep fittings compact. Ball valves with quarter turn handles make isolation fast in the field.

Heater And Mixing Control

Let the heater produce hot water a bit above your target, then set the thermostatic mixer where you shower. That buffer stabilizes temperature when someone opens a sink or the pump cycles.

Keep It Working In The Cold

Cold weather readiness starts in the design phase. Place tanks and lines inside the insulated envelope whenever possible. Where lines must run in a cavity, add insulation and low watt heat cable with a thermostat. Keep a small service hatch near the lowest drains so you can purge water quickly before a hard freeze.

Winterization has two routes. The air method uses a drain down followed by low pressure air to clear lines. The fluid method uses potable RV antifreeze in lines and traps. Both work if you isolate the water heater per its manual. Label the process inside a cabinet and keep the fittings in a small kit so you do not lose time on a cold night.

Grey water management is easier when you vent and trap correctly. A short vertical standpipe after the pan, a compact trap, and a continuous slope to the tank prevent standing water and odors. If you shower in silt or sand, add a removable hair and grit screen at the drain for easier cleanup.

Winterization Playbook

Shut off the pump, open low point drains, crack the shower to break vacuum, and let gravity work. Bump the pump for one second to clear the diaphragm. Bypass the heater, then run a brief air purge or fill with antifreeze until pink reaches each fixture.

Bring this all together with a careful commissioning. Pressure test, inspect every joint, then run the pump and heater for a full hot shower. Confirm no leaks, stable outlet temperature, and fast drainage. Take notes on flow and temperature that you can reference later.

For a seamless build that looks factory and behaves even better, our team designs and installs complete water systems inside purpose built rigs. Explore our overland rigs to see how plumbing integrates with power, heat, and storage. If you want a tailored system added to your current vehicle, check our custom overland upfit services. Curious about process, testing, and delivery support in Fayetteville Arkansas? Read why choose OZK Customs.

Bring Hot Water To The Wild

You describe the miles you drive and the showers you expect. We design the system, install it with service access in mind, and hand you a rig that holds temperature and drains cleanly on rough roads. When you are ready for a quiet pump, a safe heater, and a shower that simply works, our shop turns plans into plumbing that lasts.